Having shot PRS events personally I appreciate how 'enthusiastic' a guy can be as he attempts to ring the bells on a stage. The length of the screw is maybe 5/8' long. The load applied to that fastener is concentrated to a relatively small area. We have a #10-32 fastener attached to a T nut and separated by some sheets of composite and squishy filler material that tries like hell to be tough. That is what lead you down the path you have before you now.

Lots of repair stuff by me on SRF.Not that this will help you, the OP, but maybe someone will benefit from it. Clean up has to be fast in order not to mar the finish. Let it dry a day and if it goes in just fine than use CA, I generally use thinned Devcon 2 ton 5 min. If the crack is not open than Ca may do the trick, You can first see how plain alcohol slips into the crack as a trial. In an area subjected to heavy stress, the repair will require pins or dowels, in contrast, a dry wood split many just need some CA or epoxy. Look at the crack and its location, and figure how much stress its under, and why the crack occurred. But, it is always best to clean with acetone if the surfaces are oily for better holding power. It does stick to cleaned oily cosmo soaked wood. This does extend drying time just a wee bit, like maybe an extra minute or so. For areas around gas tank placement, I use Devcon epoxy due to its ability to not come loose or break down.ĭeacon 2 ton epoxy comes in 5 minute and the normal 30-45 minute versions Devcon is resistant to gun cleaning solutions and it can be thinned with acetone or denatured alcohol. I will have to give it a try and see how it works for bonding used dirty wood. With all the new stuff, I bet there may be special versions of CA for gas/oil soaked woods? I do not know of any? I have not use Starboard. This takes some working time to force epoxy into the crack, to clean up the surface, and then clamp the stock using 1/2 thick rubber pads and wood clamps. Next I apply and force the epoxy mix into the crack with my finger pressure in both directions. Before starting I wax the wood first to avoid the epoxy from sticking to the finish. On a tight crack, I sometimes use a small pin to ever so slightly open the crack so it opens a wee bit, but not enough for a needle to insert epoxy. Hence, I favor Devcon 2 ton epoxy that can be thinned and used in a hypodermic needle and inserted deep into a less tight crack. However on airplane fuel soaked woods or cosmo soaked stocks I never had much luck with it bonding. CA does bond a variety of materials with smooth surfaces glass, ceramic, plastic. There are thick versions of CA that are gap filling and some dry a wee be slower than instant- I found these work better on wood in case I need to move things because I did not set parts exactly perfect. If not aligned perfect & it bonds you are in trouble, or start over. On RC airplanes it sets fast so there is no dry time and tiny ribs can be perfectly mated & firm ASAP. New versions of CA glues offer very watery versions that slip into cracks like alcohol, but set too fast to clamp together and like you said are too thin to be gap filling. If I was messing with clamps or dowels I never had time, or had little time to align parts & clamp. I have found Cyanoacrylate as somewhat instant adhesive.

I only use hot stuff which was very watery on model airplanes, never with stocks or furniture.

Stock crack repair